MÉMOIRE 1

This watch has only two hands – one for the minutes
and one for the seconds – along with a disc to indicate
the hours. And yet, Maurice Lacroix is presenting at
Baselworld 2008 with the Memoire 1 one of the most
complicated watches ever developed!
The reason is that a revolutionary design sits inside
this chronograph, limited to 20 pieces, – the fi rst memory
function for a mechanical timepiece. An indication
at 3 o'clock
reveals the secret: By pressing the button integrated
into the crown, the mode changes from “Time”
to “Chrono”. The hands and the hours disc immediately
change their positions. If their previous function
was telling the current time, they are now available
for the precise measurement of time intervals. When
the button is pressed once again, they all return to
their positions for telling time. Even when the chronograph
is running, it is still possible to shift back
and forth between the two modes without losing the
information provided by one or the other function.
The memory function of the ML 128 manufacture movement,
which makes possible this unique connection
between the time and chronograph indications,
is a major new Grande Complication that Maurice
Lacroix developed to enrich the world of mechanical
timekeeping. The mechanism and movement
were completely designed and developed in the new
“Atelier de Maurice Lacroix”. The result of this intensive
process is a highly complex calibre made of 604
components for which Maurice Lacroix has already
submitted two patent applications.
MEMOIRE 1 –
THE BRILLIANCE OF SIMPLICITY
MAURICE LACROIX CREATES THE FIRST MECHANICAL WATCH
WITH A MEMORY!
CAN A MECHANISM REMEMBER? FROM NOW ON, THE ANSWER IS “YES”! MAURICE LACROIX DEVELOPED
THE FIRST MEMORY FUNCTION FOR A MECHANICAL WATCH. THIS COMPLETELY NEW GRANDE COMPLICATION,
WHICH WILL FIND ITS INITIAL APPLICATION IN THE EXCLUSIVE MEMOIRE 1 CHRONOGRAPH, LIMITED
TO 20 PIECES, IS A NEW MILESTONE IN THE HISTORY OF THE ART OF SWISS WATCHMAKING.
The ML 128 calibre of Memoire 1 is constructed using
604 components. Some of these form the base movement,
because even the best and most sophisticated
complications need to be “fed with energy”. This is
why a completely new movement has been created,
step by step.
Even though the technical features of this movement
are imposing, the design and the transparency of it
are not of less importance. Because it wasn't simply
a matter of creating a new mechanical memory
complication, the wearer had to be able to admire the
workings and its constituent elements. This is why all
the components and their positions in the heart of
the watch have been conceived in both logical and
aesthetic terms.
Thus the automatic winding system consists of an
exocentric oscillating assembly, which permits to
show the regulatory system to advantage. Thanks
to its small dimensions, the rotor does not cover the
surface entirely and therefore offers a view into the
workings of the Memoire 1 from the underside of the
watch. So that it can perform the necessary rapid
and effi cient winding of the barrel, the rotor has been
constructed in tungsten, which is a heavy material.
But with an asymmetrical design and an unconventional
shape, this rotor has been developed with the aim
of achieving good, aesthetic integration in the special
turret shape of the bridges of this movement.
The pure decoration and the innovative PVD surface
treatment in tantalum colour bring the image of
Maurice Lacroix to the fore. The specialists have pushed
harmony as far as it can go and even went so far
as to construct the screws on the bridges in a shape
resembling that of the turret, so that the overall view
forms a harmonious whole.
The rotor pivots on a ball bearing developed specifi cally
for the requirements of this new calibre and works
directly in the reverse, via the expedient of a “magic
pawl” which optimizes all the wrist movements of the
wearer. A bi-directional winding has been retained in
order to allow maximum winding litheness and also
guarantee maximum torque.
WHEELS THAT TURN BACKWARDS
The power supplied by the automatic mechanism is
transmitted to a barrel which has a strong energy
density and this allows a power reserve of more than
four days. From the barrel, the movement turns backwards.
This allows a spring to be compressed on the
barrel arbour, which is exactly the same as in a traditional
movement. However, this spring compresses
from right to left instead of from left to right. The result
is logical: the wheels which transfer the motor
power to the regulator turn backwards.
TECHNOLOGY AND AESTHETICS
IN PERFECT HARMONY
These wheels are endowed with the most modern
profi les, which allow optimum performance to be
achieved. It is the equivalent of transmitting the energy
emitted by the barrel under optimum conditions.
Furthermore, the special shape of the wheel arms, as
well as their colour, also give a strong visual identifi cation
to Memoire 1. Thus one can sense the philosophy
that dominates this exceptional piece: logic married
to technology and aesthetics. Finally, and as always
for technical and aesthetic reasons, the stones which
decorate the movement are white and transparent. Of
MAURICE LACROIX PRESENTS A NEWBASE MOVEMENT
Maurice Lacroix S.A., Brandschenkestrasse 2, 8001 Zürich, Switzerland, www.mauricelacroix.com, Phone +41 (0)44 209 11 11, Fax +41 (0)44 209 12 52
course this is all part of the aesthetic philosophy of
Memoire 1, but it also makes it possible to visualize
and control the intermeshing between pinions and
crown wheels. Moreover, the watchmaker can clearly
see the drop of oil placed in the hollow section of the
stone in which the pinion pivots.
After having transmitted through the wheels, the energy
is passed on to the escapement. This has been
developed especially for this new calibre carrying the
signature of Maurice Lacroix because it has been totally
adapted to the needs of its complication. The creators
wanted to show it, to have it valued, as if to give
all their importance to the heart of a watch that beats
without a break and marks the passage of time.
As for the balance, this has been given a core of
transparent sapphire and a felloe of gold, which underlines
the depth of the movement, yet gives an
airy impression to the whole regulation system. Finally,
this mechanism is equipped with a new precision
adjustment, different from the traditional swan's
neck design. This system, developed by Maurice
Lacroix, will considerably simplify the work of the
watchmaker when trying to obtain the best performance
for the ML 128 calibre, which beats at 28,800
semi-oscillations per hour.
Furthermore, with an exceptional movement comes
exceptional service. In order to be able to guarantee
complete information for those wearing it, the movement
of Memoire 1 is supplied with a plate displaying
service times, so the wearer can see when the next
necessary service is due. Finally, this movement has
an identity personalized by the name of the watchmaker
responsible for assembling the elements of this
Grande Complication, which bears the signature of
Maurice Lacroix.
The base movement of this chronograph is a suffi -
ciently major feature alone; it has been perfected,
however, through the watchmaking ingeniousness of
its complications.
Even if it does not seem so at fi rst glance, the
Memoire 1 really is a chronograph. Using the button
integrated directly into the crown, you can switch
between time and chronograph mode. The indication
of the selected mode is taken over by a small
hand near 3 o'clock. This operation is made possible
thanks to an ingenious mechanism, which the creators
christened “va et vient” (“come and go”) and for
which Maurice Lacroix has already fi led a patent.
Starting, stopping, and resetting the chronograph
function the same way on the Memoire 1 as with the
stopwatch functions on all other similar timepieces:
Pressing a button near 2 o'clock starts and stops
timekeeping; resetting the hands is done with the
button at 4 o'clock. A heart-shaped metal component
– one for each indication: hours, minutes and seconds
– allows the chronograph hands to jump back
to their initial positions at 12 o'clock. The Memoire 1
is equipped not only with three but with more of these
chronograph hearts.
ALL OR NOTHING
The principle of “all or nothing” permits the release of
the detent arm on most watches with minute repetition
when the appropriate rack has been fully pressed.
If the wearer completely presses the corresponding
button, the watch movement counts the full hours,
quarter hours and minutes. However, if the button
is not pressed to the bottom, the function does not
start. The Memoire 1 is equipped with a similar system,
which guarantees the perfect functioning of the
mode change. This system is not only very interesting
from a technical point of view, it also makes it much
easier to tell the time because it ensures the precision
of the indications of hours, minutes and seconds.
As soon as the selection mode with its “va et vient”
mechanism is pressed, a connecting mechanism,
which is based on the principle of “all or nothing”, sets
the three systems of the memory function in motion.
These Memoire systems are ingenious watchmaking
devices that correspond to the indications – hours,
minutes and seconds.
Not least, the Memoire 1 has a date indication based
on a newly developed mechanism, which unifi es
technology, design and readability perfectly. Contrary
to traditional large date indications, the date on the
Memoire 1 is very discrete in order not to spoil the
harmony of the dial while not compromising any of its
easy readability.
The memory function of Memoire 1 will certainly be
recorded in annals for haute horlogerie as an incomparable
Grande Complication.
THE COMPLICATIONS OF THE MEMOIRE 1 – THE SPIRIT OF THE
WATCHMAKER'S INVENTIVE POWERS AT ITS HIGHEST LEVEL
Also demanding aesthetic requirements were a primary
concern during the creation process of the
Memoire 1. For this reason, the design and the movement
decoration feature several world fi rsts.
A fi rst glance at the Memoire 1 already triggers many
different emotions: its impressive presence immediately
places this watch in the category of exceptional
timepieces known as Grandes Complications.
The strong and unique visual appearance is its fi rst
distinguishing feature. A closer look reveals the subtle
harmony of the pure and elegant design with its
smooth transition from mirror-polished components
to fi ne-brushed surfaces uniting the different levels
of the case and dial. In a word, the Memoire 1
incorporates that fantastic quality which typifi es the
most important creations of the watchmaking art –
the fusion of elegant design and exceptional functions.
This has not come about by chance. The entire development
process behind the Memoire 1 focussed on
an effort to unite eye-catching styling perfectly with
simple readability and ease of use. The idea was to
package up an innovative mechanism in such a way
that the wearer can benefi t from the technical advantages
of his watch, so making its use a source of constantly
renewed pleasure.
Despite its circular form which refl ects the endeavour
to achieve a pure and el gant impact, the white gold
case of theMemoire 1 comes in a unique and entirely
new look. It is built up from several different levels and
its screw-fi tted bezel with a laterally mounted sapphire
crystal with anti-refl ective coating enables the movement
of the seconds hand to be admired. Another innovative
feature is the mode selection button which is
integrated in the crown at 3 o'clock.
The dial also incorporates a number of innovations. Its
different levels make the individual displays far more
easily readable. A skeleton section with an aperture
at 6 o'clock reveals the movement behind and the
memory mechanism for the seconds. The date display
is also special: with its uniquely inclined disc,
this indication takes up a considerable amount of
space, but does enable the date to be seen at fi rst
glance.
Another world fi rst of the Memoire 1 is the hours
disc. This transparent disc is not made of sapphire,
as might be supposed. After making detailed tests,
the designers found that sapphire lacks the necessary
density for this purpose and is therefore too
weak for this particular application. So a different
solution had to be found. Finally, a mineral-based
material was chosen which is already successfully used
today in pioneering industries such as the automobile
branch or in mobile phones. A special treatment endows
this material with great hardness and suffi cient
fl exibility; Maurice Lacroix will therefore also be using
it for other developments in future.
The hands are also particularly striking. The seconds
hand is blued and mounted at its outer edge on the
minutes ring, while the minutes hand has a white luminous
coating with a blue radiance in the darkness. A
skeleton hand at 3 o'clock shows the selected mode.
The Memoire 1 is rounded off by the superb strap
which is fully integral with the watch case by means of
a hinge system. It is made of precious, matte-fi nished
alligator leather and its buckle is in white gold.
MEMOIRE 1 – EMOTION IN ITS PUREST STATE