Ornament Nouveau

“I want people to experience the emotional sensations that architecture can evoke through its spatial, structural and artisanal complexity: architecture on the wrist. That is why our watches are called after the architectural ornament”. Michiel Holthinrichs

Holthinrichs Watches is founded by Dutch architect Michiel Holthinrichs. Ever since Michiel started the brand in 2016, it has been Michiel’s dream to create an integral design without concessions, meaning that every component has to work together and needs to follow the same strong concept, down to the smallest details. Because a design is only truly successful when all components complement each other, together forming one ultimate three-dimensional wrist sculpture: miniature architecture. 

ORNAMENT NOUVEAU is the outcome of that dream. A project that contains our first in-house movement in a spectacular, unprecedented sculptural design language. 

The inspiration for ORNAMENT NOUVEAU is drawn from Art Nouveau and Early Modernist architecture. A spectacular three-dimensional design is realized using modern metal binder jetting technology, combined with CNC machining and manual finishing. The case is made out of titanium grade 5. Parts of the case are unfinished to showcase the process of the making as part of the aesthetic of the design. This is according to our modernist concept of “Horlogerie Brut” (a hint to Le Corbusier’s Béton Brut). The concept stands for the use of heavy textural play, material honesty, natural patinas and RAW aesthetics directly derived from the manufacturing processes, combined with contrasting refined manual finishing. ORNAMENT NOUVEAU’s case is made out of titanium, providing sufficient strength for the thin lines of the lugs, and offers possibilities for customizations with selective surfaces anodized in several colors. 

ORNAMENT NOUVEAU features our first in-house movement in a spectacular, unprecedented sculptural design language to complement the overall design language of the watch. Realizing this movement is a huge step for us - being a young independent watchmaker - which we could only achieve by building close relations with local (Dutch) precision manufacturers, Swiss specialist suppliers, and investments in both skills and machines in our workshop.

The movement, though simple in its functioning - telling only hours and minutes - is complex in its execution. While only 4mm thick, it offers maximal three-dimensionality through complex machining and specific manual finishing. The mainplate of the movement consists of a double concave shape, creating a strong optical three-dimensional effect. The mainplate is made out of brass, and available in four galvanic colors: 18K gold, 18K rose gold, white rhodium or black rhodium. From the sides of the mainplate, attached with hidden screws, organically shaped stainless steel bridges are cantilevered above the center of the movement. Each executed as miniature sculptures with multiple interacting three-dimensional surfaces and manually finished with heavy contrasting textures and anglage for maximal depth. 

The star of the show is our in-house developed variable inertia balance wheel. A dynamically shaped openworked circle held in place in an exceptional three-dimensional glass bridge (called the “Holthinbridge”). 

A spectacular UV-sensitive dial

Central in the movement, a specific cast-iron like object bridge features a screwed down nut created to fixate the unique developed dial. A dial made out of UV-sensitive photochromic material. The dial turns dark gray in UV lighting, protecting the skeleton movement from damaging UV light, as well as providing a playful aspect to the watch. Outside of direct UV lighting, one can see the beautiful sculptural movement. While in the sun, the watch turns into a very classical timepiece. A novelty in the watch industry

A unique hornback strap. 

Expressively for ORNAMENT NOUVEAU, the strap is made out of hornback alligator with a large scale size. It was the only natural material that could complement the three-dimensionality of the timepiece. 

Presentation

Optionally, and uniquely for this timepiece, we created a large 3D printed stainless steel artwork. A light openworked sculpture placed in a glass dome, into which the watch can be exhibited. The sculpture will be available for both clients and retailers, and is unlike any other watch presentation.

Availability

Our atelier only has capacity for a maximum of 20 timepieces per year. Pre-orders are open as per official publication (July/August 2024) based upon artist impressions and prototypes (which will be present at Geneva Watch Days). The first, and unique example will be for direct sales at Phillips auction in Hong Kong. This model will be accompanied by the sculpture.

Holthinrichs Watches background

We at Holthinrichs Watches create watches that are unique in the world. Our approach to watch design through an architectural perspective leads to complex structural shapes and integrated design and the mastery of high-tech 3D manufacturing. Over the years, we have become specialists in additive manufacturing and manual finishing, allowing us to create integral designed “haute horlogerie” with unprecedented architectural structures and a high end manual finishing.

In the long run, Holthinrichs’ goal is to develop a fully equipped factory that is also designed to accommodate guests to experience the Holthinrichs Watches manufacture, its timepieces, art and inspiration. A stronghold for innovation and creativity, and a place that defines the future of Dutch Watchmaking. It can be regarded as an “Ecosystem”, a place or hub that is self-sufficient and open to short or long stay creatives and makers, creative collaborations and social events. It will also be a place where people get educated, trained in specific expertises, delivering skilled craftsmen and developing knowledge. It is important to mention this longer term vision, as this is Michiel’s dream and vision, influencing many strategic decisions.